Beach Life in Goa: Beyond the Parties

Goa has a reputation for trance parties and beaches full of tourists, and yes, that exists. But there is another side to Goa that I fell in love with, a side of quiet fishing villages, Portuguese era churches, and spice plantations. I stayed in South Goa, which is much more laid back than the north. Palolem Beach was my base. It is a crescent shaped bay with calm water, perfect for swimming. I rented a kayak one morning and paddled out to Butterfly Island, a tiny island just off the coast where I had the beach almost entirely to myself. Another day, I rented a scooter and drove inland to a spice farm. The tour was a bit touristy, but walking through the plantation, smelling fresh cardamom and pepper, and then having a traditional Goan fish curry for lunch was fantastic. Do not miss the churches in Old Goa either. They are a UNESCO World Heritage site and a reminder of Goa's Portuguese history. The Basilica of Bom Jesus holds the remains of St. Francis Xavier, and it is an impressive piece of architecture. For beginners, Goa is an easy introduction to India because it has good infrastructure, lots of English speakers, and a relaxed vibe that helps you ease into the country.